Ein Blick hinter die Kulissen einer Lederwarenmanufaktur
How to make a wallet
We all probably have at least one wallet. Some people are interested in the functionality of their wallet, others value quality, and yet others may even own several fashionable wallets. But how is a wallet actually made? What steps are necessary for production and how do the price differences between the different products arise? At Braun Büffel in Kirn, a small town with a long tradition in the leather industry in the heart of Rhineland-Palatinate, small leather goods are still made by hand.
THE WALLET: A NATURAL PRODUCT, HANDMADE
Manfred Goll has been a master fine leather maker and production manager at Braun for over 30 years. He still enjoys his job, even though he ended up in the fine leather industry more by chance.
"It was important to me to work with a natural product," says the master. He actually wanted to be a carpenter, but in 1975 there were no apprenticeships available. So an application to the job center brought him to the Braun company and to train as a fine leather goods maker. In 1987, Manfred Goll passed his master craftsman's examination and then took over the company's production management. "With us, the customer may have to spend a little more money. But in return he gets the corresponding quality," he promises. But let's start from the beginning.
PURCHASING AND QUALITY CONTROL: READING THE LEATHER
The creation of a wallet begins with the leather. When it is delivered, it must first be checked. The quality, properties and condition of the leather determine what can be made from it. The fine leather maker does not just differentiate between, say, cow, buffalo and yak leather. "The character of the animal is also reflected in the leather," says Manfred Goll. Every leather has flaws. Injuries such as bite wounds, but also mosquito bites leave their mark. "One animal wants to show that it is the strongest, the other prefers to sit in the corner and have peace and quiet," explains Manfred Goll. The leather of the combative animal is characterized by bite wounds and scars. The peace-loving animal produces a more even leather - logical!
"When manufacturing our leather goods, we make sure that our leather remains mostly natural. That's why it's so important to consider the material. We have to be able to read the leather."
The leather of a single animal can also vary greatly. On the belly side, for example, the grain of the leather is looser and softer, while on the back it is firmer and more even. "With every leather, you ultimately have to make a compromise," says Mr. Goll, "but that's exactly what makes the work so interesting."
THE CUTTING SHOP: PUNCHING, SPLITTING, EMBOSSING, SHARPENING
Once the quality of the leather has been checked, it goes to the cutting room. This is where the individual leather pieces are cut. When making prototypes, this is done by hand using carefully made paper templates. When a bag goes into production, a punching tool is made for each of the templates. A punching machine then takes over the cutting. However, the puncher still has to decide during production which piece of leather is best suited for which part of the wallet. The challenge is to produce a wallet of perfect quality while keeping material waste to a minimum.
The leather is then "split" to the desired processing thickness using a machine, i.e. cut thinner. The outer parts of the wallet remain slightly thicker than, for example, the leather parts that will later become the credit card compartments. The aim is to produce a wallet that is as thin as possible, but still durable and functional. In the next step, the wallet parts are embossed with the company logo at around 130 degrees. Depending on the leather, color and style of the wallet, the embossing remains pure or is highlighted with transparent or colored foil. Finally, the edges are "sharpened", i.e. cut thinner using a machine so that they can be folded over more easily in the subsequent production process. Then the handicraft of the fine leather maker begins.
MANY SMALL PUZZLE PIECES - THE PRODUCTION
Dexterity is the key word. "From now on, only two or three machines will be used: a stitching machine to sew the seam, a snap fastener machine to press the snap fastener on the coin compartment and riveting machines to rivet the logo, for example," explains Manfred Goll.
A wallet consists of many individual parts that are put together like a puzzle during production with great attention to detail. Leather, lining and reinforcement materials are meticulously processed into a wallet in a constant interplay of gluing and sewing. Millimeter work - in the truest sense of the word.
FINE LEATHER MAKING - A CREATIVE PROCESS
The Braun Büffel manufactory in Kirn is the only one in Rhineland-Palatinate that still trains fine leather craftsmen.
The versatility of the job is particularly appealing to young people. "You can make so many things out of leather - wallets, bags, belts and key cases - and every wallet is different, just as every leather can be processed differently," says one trainee. The young fine leather maker describes her job as creative and varied. "I particularly like the fact that at the end you hold a product in your hands," she explains. The creativity of creating something that you can touch, a product that grows from the design to the finished wallet, is something that Mr. Goll also describes as particularly fulfilling. The master craftsman always finds the production of prototypes to be an exciting process: "To begin with, you only have a drawing and then you have to put the material together based on this drawing. When you end up with a product where everything fits, it's really a great story," enthuses Manfred Goll.
WHAT MAKES BRAUN BÜFFEL PRODUCTS SO SPECIAL?
"Anyone who knows the Braun Büffel brand knows that we only use high-quality leather," says the master craftsman, describing the advantages of his product. "We attach great importance to where our leather comes from and where it is tanned."
But it is not just the raw material that is chosen with love. During the production of the leather products, the fine leather maker also makes sure that the structure and color of the leather parts match, that the quilting seams harmonize exactly with the style of the wallet and that a flawless, unique product is created in the end. The production facility also has an impact on the quality, but of course also on the price. "There are differences in our collections too," explains Manfred Goll, "We offer cheaper entry-level models and fashion items, as well as higher-priced, higher-quality products for our particularly demanding customers."
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