We encounter leather products everywhere in our everyday lives: from leather bags and shoes to leather jackets and the leather straps on our watches and even the leather steering wheel in our cars. Leather production is an integral part of human culture worldwide, as there is hardly any material that can compare to real leather in terms of durability and resistance. The consumption of animal meat and the processing of hides and skins goes back to the Stone Age and has been an important commodity ever since.
WHERE DOES THE LEATHER COME FROM?
Nevertheless, it is important to ask how and where it comes from. Especially with super cheap leather products, the question arises as to which manufacturing methods made this price possible. Around 40 small work steps are necessary to produce leather from the perishable raw material. Given this background and the fact that leather is the skin of animals, one should consider how cheap a leather product CAN actually be.
The hides used for leather should also always be a by-product of the meat industry. Slaughtering solely for leather production, with the disposal of other valuable raw materials such as meat, is just as unacceptable as animal cruelty. Transparency is required here: Where does the leather come from, how are the animals kept, how is the leather obtained and what happens to the other raw materials?
FROM RAWHIDE TO LEATHER - STORY OF A TRANSFORMATION
A leather manufacturer usually buys the already tanned leather hides for further processing. The pure raw material, the animal hide, is initially a perishable, organic product. Only through processing does the raw material become a resistant and durable end product that can be made into a leather bag, shoes or a leather couch. This transformation requires a complex processing process that - depending on the type of leather and tanning process - takes several weeks to months.
THE TANNING
During the tanning process, the organic raw material is transformed into durable leather. Tanning preserves the animal hide for the long term by allowing the tanning agents to form a chemical bond with the skin fibers. This prevents the animal hide from decaying and hardening. The leather is then dyed, greased, sanded and possibly embossed.
A rough distinction is made between real and fake tanning. In real tanning, the bond between the skin fiber and the tanning agents is irreversible, i.e. permanent. This includes chrome tanning and vegetable tanning.
Fake tanning, which includes alum tanning and tanning with fat, creates an unstable bond between the leather and the tanning agents. The leather is therefore sensitive to moisture and heat.
The German tannery Südleder relies on the highest quality standards through consistent economic and ecological action. The regional roots are very important to the company, which is why Südleder is one of the few tanneries still based in Germany.
TANNING TYPES AT A GLANCE
1. Chrome tanning
- the most common tanning method since 1900
- with chromium (III) salts harmless to health
- approximately 75-80 percent of global production
- short production time of a few days
- bluish-gray coloration
2. Vegetable tanning
- Tanning with oak or spruce bark, quebracho wood, tara pods, olive leaves, rhubarb roots or mimosa bark
- production time of 15 months or longer
- approximately 5000-year-old tanning process
- Today only about 10-12 percent of global production
- brownish color
3. Tanning
- Oxidation of Tran = Fish Oil
- production time 3-4 months
- oldest known tanning process (since around 6000 BC)
- yellowish color
4. Alum tanning
- tanning with aluminum salts
- very sensitive leather
- white coloring
5. Synthetic tanning
- Tanning with artificially produced substances: formaldehyde, glutaraldehyde, phenols and acrylates
- Leather sensitive to moisture and heat
- often in combination with chrome tanning or vegetable tanning
- white coloring
Tanning is the most important process in the production of leather, but there are other steps that follow to achieve the desired properties of the leather. But let's start from the very beginning.
LEATHER PRODUCTION STEP BY STEP:
1. Softening the leather
After delivery, the raw material is freed of dirt and preservative salts. It regains its original water content and is thus prepared for further processing.
2. Liming the leather
By adding lime and sulphur compounds, the raw material is freed from hair and the epidermis. In this production step, skin fibres are prepared for the binding of the tannins.
3. Fleshing the leather
Using sharp knife rollers, the subcutaneous connective tissue, meat residues and non-collagenous proteins and fatty substances are removed from the skin.
4. Splitting the leather
In this production step, the hair-side grain gap is separated from the flesh-side grain gap. The grain gap is then processed into smooth leather, and the flesh gap is processed into suede, for example.
5. The Naughty
The resulting pelt is the "naked" skin, which is then processed into leather during the tanning process. This pure collagen is a fibrous connective tissue protein that is particularly stable and durable due to its three-dimensional fiber network.
6. Pickling, pickling and tanning of leather
The pelt is then prepared again in a rotating barrel with acid and salt and then mixed in an aqueous environment with the tanning agent required to produce the final product. During the tanning process, the leather is preserved and becomes resistant to rot and heat stress.
7. Wilting of the leather
The leather is then dewatered through huge rollers.
8. Sorting the leather
The transformation of raw animal skin into leather is complete. The leather is now sorted according to various quality criteria before it goes on to further processing.
9. Folding the leather
In this production step, the leather is again pulled through huge rollers, which bring the grain leather to a uniform thickness.
10. Wet finishing
The acid added for tanning is neutralized. The leather is then dyed and greased. The processing methods vary depending on the type of leather.
11. Drying the leather
During the wilting and stretching process, stored water is removed from the leather fibers, the leather is smoothed and pinned. It is then dried using an appropriate drying process depending on the type of leather.
12. Studs of the leather
Drying causes the leather fibers to stick together. To loosen these, the leather is machine-tumbled.
13. Hydrophorbization
During this manufacturing step, the leather is impregnated against water and dirt, depending on its intended use.
14. Preparing the leather
During the dry finishing process, the leather is given its final appearance using various mechanical and chemical treatments. This is where the decision is made as to whether the leather should have a shiny or matte surface and a smooth or grained surface. By printing or embossing the leather, the appearance can be changed significantly and adapted to current fashions or customer preferences.
15. Final inspection
Before the leather is dispatched and begins its journey to the leather goods manufacturer, it undergoes a final inspection. This ensures that all requirements were met during production. The leather is then sorted according to its quality characteristics, measured, packaged and shipped.
FROM LEATHER TO LEATHER GOODS - THE ART OF FINE LEATHER MAKING
After production and shipping, the finished leather is checked for quality again in the leather factory and then processed into bags, wallets, belts or shoes, for example. For this, the leather must be cut to size and then put together like a puzzle in production. This artistic craft requires the skills of the fine leather maker, who transforms the leather into a bag or wallet in many small steps - from design to cutting and production.
Find out how a wallet is made and take a look behind the scenes of the leather goods factory.